Osage flipped plains “Beaver” 30#/24” (No. 124)

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The flipped tips are steamed in, side corrections and untwist is done with the heatgun. The stave was just a sliver from a regular stave. Back is painted with thin paint of earth pigments, then particularly sanded to achieve a used look. Upper nock is a side nock (beaver mouth), lower nock is diamond shaped.Read more

Golden chain tree gullwing stick 23#/24” (No. 123)

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The stave for this little bow came half from the trunk and half from a branch (see sketch). I found the whole little tree in the bio chunk container and couldn’t resist to take that golden chain tree with me. All the corrections and curving was done with the heatgun. The deflex of the upperRead more

Walnut 5 curve 39/28 (No. 118)

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This one caused some problems, it didn’t take good with heat bending. Finally I could bring the limbs in line and balanced to a mild 5 curve design. The curves flatten out nearly completely at fulldraw. The flat belly tapers the last 5” into 5edge shaped tips. She got simple triangular pin nocks. The backRead more

Osage flattie with triangels 42/24“ (No. 114)

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Nothing special – just a common flattie. A natural grown grain narrowing is used as arrow pass. The selftips have also a natural grown ‚overlay‘ – just an additional ring on the back (see the last pic). The pattern on the back is painted with earth pigments (burnt umbra). No heat, no steam, no fume.Read more

Juniper flattie 38/26 (No.110)

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Here is a bow from a really expressive character stave with wonderful colors. A selection of the problems (= character, ha-ha): It has a tremendous changing crown – causing particularly hollowed out belly; Portions of ingrown dead wood; Huge hole in lower limb; It was hard work to tiller this little bow, but finally aRead more

Holly flatty “holey holly” 34/28 (No. 109)

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Some years ago I got some holly (ilex aquifolium) staves donated from my friend Andi (thanks bro!). One of those was split in halves, one half was a good one and made a nice bow. The other half was full of dead branches and I laid it in a corner and forgot about it. OverRead more

how to use a knot hole in a tip

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On one of the lastest plains bows was a hole from a little branch, just where the string was meant to be sitting. This is not a drilled hole -it is natural. Instead of carving a pin nock or something else, this hole was used for the lower string fixing. Here are some pics fromRead more

Osage plains bow with fishskin handle (No. 104)

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dw/dl: 41#/22” ntn: 44” bh: 4¼” reflexn: 1½” mass: 244 gram max. width: 1⅛” 06”: 04,8 08”: 09,2 (+4,4) 10”: 13,2 (+4,0) 12”: 17,2 (+4,0) 14”: 21,4 (+4,2) 16”: 25,8 (+4,4) 18”: 30,5 (+4,7) 20”: 35,6 (+5,1) 22”: 41,0 (+5,4) This bow is heat corrected for string alignment and untwisting (particularly). It got an additionalRead more

Carpinus betulus ‚DOGLEG‘ (No. 103)

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ntn: 59½” bh: 5” mass: 506 gram max. width: 1¾” symmetrical stiff handle: species: carpinus betulus 08”: 06,0 10”: 11,2 (+5,2) 12”: 15,9 (+4,7) 14”: 20,2 (+4,3) 16”: 24,3 (+4,1) 18”: 28,4 (+4,1) 20”: 32,6 (+4,2) 22”: 36,6 (+4,0) 24”: 40,6 (+4,0) 26”: 45,0 (+4,4) 28”: 49,8 (+4,8) Carpinus betulus, european hornbeam, or Hainbuche inRead more

Cornus mas ‚propeller‘ 43/28” (No. 102)

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ntn: 56½” bh: 5” mass: 454 gram max. width: 2” symmetrical stiff handle Really good cornus mas (cornelian cherry) are quite rare at my homeland. But, as this wood is one of the best bow woods here, I take every piece I get my hands on. This one was a special stave, super clean –Read more

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