Osage straight ALB painted back 52#/28″ (No. 134)

This ALB is made from a knot free and clean stave, only a few pins are on the belly. A drying crack on the back of the inner half upper limb was unavoidable. Fortunately it was running clear with the grain. It was filled with runny super glue – no problem. The stave needed only little heat corrections to come along.

The belly is rounded, fades got a ridge and at tips the cross section is a high triangle.

Tip overlays are made from antler and are rather high and spiky.

Handle is buck leather and kangaroo lacing.

The camo on the back is painted (like on bow no. 133), stain is ironchloride and the red and black accents are artists ink. The pattern is fading out towards the tips.

dw/dl: 52#/28”

ntn: 67”

bh: 5¼”

max. w.: 1¼“

reflexn: 1½”

mass: 566 gram


08”: 06,5

10”: 12,1 (+5,6)

12”: 17,2 (+5,1)

14”: 21,6 (+4,4)

16”: 25,7 (+4,1)

18”: 29,8 (+4,1)

20”: 34,0 (+4,2)

22”: 38,3 (+4,3)

24”: 42,7 (+4,4)

26”: 47,3 (+4,6)

28”: 52,1 (+4,8)


I absolutely love your bows.

I have been working on a few ALBs lately myself…and I am just amazed at how you manage to retain as much reflex as you do…

…How do you do it?? Do you start with 6” and end up with 2-3” (like in this bow featured above)?? Or are you heat-treating 4”-5” in and then able to retain the 2”-3”??

Anyway…beautiful, amazing work. I look forward to whatever you post next!!

Thanks Tim!
Of course we all are struggling for minimal set. 1 – 2″ set in a bow is normal and acceptable. On only a handful of bows I managed zero to 1″ set. The trick for me is to work as precisely as possible before even any bending. I try to be very accurate, so when I start the tillering I have to remove only a handful flakes. Normally I do no floor tiller, I glue on tip verlays (or selftips) and begin with tillering. I also found my tiller work got very better as I changed from tiller tree to free hand tiller using a big mirror in a 5 meter distance. Hope this makes sense to you.
Good luck with your projects!

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